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Author Topic: Removing black sharpie autographs
docellis
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posted February 17, 2003 05:49 PM      Profile for docellis   Author's Homepage   Email docellis        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Well I did the impossible, I removed a black sharpie Autograph on a white Ultrafil jersey. The auto was on the white ultrafil material.

DISCLAIMER - I would call Joe Tomemon and send it to him, which I was going to do. Before trying this on your own.

First I went to Sanfords website and read up on all the chemicals to try to use and how to use them. I used 2 chemicals. Carbona #3. and Amodex. It took appox. 7 man hours and 3 separate stages to finally get it out.

First you can buy Carbona products at Johann Fabrics stores, and you can order Amodex at 1-203-335-1255.

Tools you will need -

1) plenty of terri-cloth towels
2) Carbona and Amodex chemicals
3) a electric tooth brush soft bristles
4) a golf ball clean with no logo's
5) warm water
6) patience and plenty of time to kill

First stage try a small letter of the auto first don't try the whole thing at once you will have a mess.

Stage 1) put the auto facing down on a white terri-cloth towel. Put a small amount of Carbona on the back side of the auto and lightly dab it with you fingers, while moving to clean spots on the terri cloth at all times. You will begin to automatically see the transfer of ink onto the terri cloth, during this process I went through 4 cloths. After a while no more ink will tranfer and you will say Rich was full of Sh-t this does not work, now comes the patience part. Lightly rinse the spot with warm water and dab it dry, and let it dry over night. NOW DO NOT HANG THE JERSEY, the chemical will is still at work and if you hang the jersey it will run and you will have a bigger mess then you began with. Lay the jersey flat with a towel under it. Make sure the jersey does not have the back side of the jersey under it, so there is no transfer.

Stage 2) Same process as before use Carbona and Amodex this time. Take a electirc tooth brush with soft bristles so it won't pill the jersey, and apply one chemical at a time and use the brush on the back side of the auto. Same thing move the cloth under neath around so ink won't transfer. Again rinse and dry.

Stage 3) 3rd day, now the hard part. The auto is 95% gone but a slight remains can still be seen. Take a golf ball and put it under the back side of the auto and stretch the material exposing the hard to get parts of the fabric. using both chemicals and the tooth brush scrub the auto on the front side. Wipe with clean cloth and keep scrubing. Then rinse and dry.

Half way through I thought I had just botched a great jersey, but with patience and time I got 99% out.

Before



AFTER



Good luck

Rich Ellis

[ February 18, 2003, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: docellis ]

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Luckygoalie
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posted February 17, 2003 05:56 PM      Profile for Luckygoalie   Email Luckygoalie        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Rich,

you forgot (Stage 4)

how much does all this cost ? [Big Grin]

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docellis
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posted February 17, 2003 06:49 PM      Profile for docellis   Author's Homepage   Email docellis        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
The Carbona is about $4.00 and the Amodex $9.00.

Time?

Rich

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docellis
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posted February 17, 2003 06:58 PM      Profile for docellis   Author's Homepage   Email docellis        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I will post before and after photo's tomorrow.

Rich

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Badger-Bob
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posted February 17, 2003 07:22 PM      Profile for Badger-Bob   Author's Homepage   Email Badger-Bob        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
That sounds like alot of trouble.

Maybe just cut the auto out, sew the hole back together & call it a team repair. [Razz]

Seriously though, thanks for the tip.

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pistoljock148
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posted February 18, 2003 06:11 AM      Profile for pistoljock148   Email pistoljock148        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Wow the tools needed are the same things that I would pack for a honeymoon.
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Vinny2292
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posted February 18, 2003 11:26 AM      Profile for Vinny2292   Email Vinny2292        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
That is one hell of a forum post. That's what this place is about. Thanks for taking the time to share that Rich. I don't know if I'd be able to make it through that process as I may fall off the wagon and begin sniffing sharpies and other markers again. Oh wait, thats for a different forum. Seriously though, great post. Cant wait to see how it turned out.

Vinny

[ February 18, 2003, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Vinny2292 ]

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kinko
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posted February 18, 2003 11:47 AM      Profile for kinko   Email kinko        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Rich...Thanks for the great detailed instructions. I think I am going to take your advise and call Joe Tomemon before I try and do this on my own [Smile] [Smile]

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FrozenInk
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posted February 18, 2003 12:23 PM      Profile for FrozenInk   Author's Homepage   Email FrozenInk        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Good job Doc,

I have gotten a blue sharpie autograph out of the back numbers on a jersey using DD7 (as seen on tv stuff)

It worked really well however, I would try it on something else first.(maybe a replica)

It took about 1 1/2-2 hours

Gary

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dastill
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posted March 21, 2003 09:33 AM      Profile for dastill   Email dastill        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Refresh for montanamike!
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BigJim817
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posted March 21, 2003 10:37 AM      Profile for BigJim817          Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
and again so his post and this one will be near each other

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flyerguy914
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posted March 21, 2003 04:29 PM      Profile for flyerguy914   Author's Homepage   Email flyerguy914        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I have found an other product that works well with taking off black and silver sharpie from pucks and plastic and its skin so soft from avon the oil not the lotion. I havent tried it yet on fabrics but it works well for me when I take autos from sharpies off of pucks and plastic. I even had luck sometimes with photos but also quite a few were ruined.

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docellis
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posted November 19, 2003 10:06 PM      Profile for docellis   Author's Homepage   Email docellis        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
refresh for those that need to know.

Rich

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brew
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posted December 02, 2004 07:51 AM      Profile for brew   Author's Homepage   Email brew        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
worth a bump.. I was researching for someone, this comes out as the best answer
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ikovalchuk17
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posted December 02, 2004 08:08 AM      Profile for ikovalchuk17   Author's Homepage   Email ikovalchuk17        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
The shirt looks great.

Is it harder to get an autograph out of a number as opposed to just jersey material?

Thanks,
Jon

[ December 02, 2004, 08:39 AM: Message edited by: ikovalchuk17 ]

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eddieshack
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posted December 02, 2004 08:23 AM      Profile for eddieshack   Author's Homepage   Email eddieshack        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Rich, thanks!! I have done it!!

I will post before and after shots as well. You can not tell it ever was there.

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ducksfan
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posted December 02, 2004 08:26 AM      Profile for ducksfan   Email ducksfan        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I would also be interested to hear the answer to Jon (Kovalchuk's) question.

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Puckguy14
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posted December 02, 2004 06:48 PM      Profile for Puckguy14   Author's Homepage   Email Puckguy14        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I know I'm a very fresh newbie here but, why "erase" an autograph, if its not personalized?

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eagles33
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posted December 02, 2004 07:12 PM      Profile for eagles33   Author's Homepage   Email eagles33        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
It's a neverending question, but it seems that many (if not most) in the gameworn community prefer that their jerseys be unsigned. In the case of hockey jerseys, the logic follows that the only markings on a jersey should be the game wear itself. In that sense, autographs on the outside of a jersey aren't a part of game wear, and are an unnecessary addition to a jersey. I can't speak for everyone, but that seems to be the general logic.

In my case, I don't get jerseys signed by a player, unless it's behind the crest, on the fight strap, etc (most people here would probably do this). When shopping for a jersey, I don't always find an autograph on the outside of a jersey to be a turn-off...many do, so a general rule of thumb is: if you plan on selling the jersey later, don't get it signed on the outside, if at all.

Now, just because I don't like to get my jerseys signed doesn't mean I strongly disagree with those who do. If that jersey is a grail of yours and is staying in your collection--if it's of a favorite player, for example, then by all means, do what you want with it...if you like the player and would want his autograph on the outside of the jersey, by all means, do what makes you happy. If you do decide to sell the jersey, however, don't be surprised if collectors get turned off by the sig, that's all.

(Clarification: A lot of players these days have real crappy signatures, which is why I don't like to get the jersey signed...I would rather there not be a scrawl on the fabric)

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Wildest Fan
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posted December 02, 2004 07:21 PM      Profile for Wildest Fan   Author's Homepage   Email Wildest Fan        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I also have accomplished this feat, but with a different formula of chemicals then Rich used . . . I believe the bottom line here more then the solvent, is a ton of gentle rubbing, many many cleanses, and a ton of time!!!!

dave [Cool]

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BUFFAN
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posted December 03, 2004 01:00 AM      Profile for BUFFAN   Email BUFFAN        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
What would someone recommend for getting a sharpie autograph out of a yellow # ???

Please let me know

Thanks Jim D
BUFFAN

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BleedBlue2
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posted September 25, 2006 12:32 PM      Profile for BleedBlue2   Author's Homepage   Email BleedBlue2        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I wanted to share with everyone something that I recently accomplished using Rich's method. I couldn't find Carbona, but my younger brother is a chemist and recommended using light amounts of finger nail polish remover (the kind with acetone) first to remove large quantities of the sharpie.



I recently purchased a 1998-99 Rivermen jersey that had 24 autographs on it from guys that played for the Rivermen from 1998 through 2000. I didn't even recognize half of the names.

The autographs were all over the front of the jersey including on the shoulders. Fortunately though, none were on the patches, crest, or numbers!

I started using the nail polish remover much in the same way Rich used Carbona, all the time being careful to keep using clean rags and holding rags underneath the jersey to prevent ink from bleeding through onto the back of the jersey. This removed almost all of the black sharpie (thin lined sharpie) autographs and removed most of the thick blue sharpie autographs. I hand-washed the jersey in some cold water with a small amount of cold-water laundry soap.

Then, I used the amodex and gently scrubbed each of the autographs with the amodex and a soft bristled tootbrush, while holding a rag underneath the jersey the whole time to prevent the autos from bleeding through onto the back of the jersey. I let the jersey sit for a little while for the Amodex to do its magic. A few hours later I went back and used Rich's golfball technique to stretch the jersey slightly. This allows you to reach the inner fibers of the ultrafil or airknit material. You need to do this to remove the "ghost" signatures that remain. I let that set for an hour and then washed the jersey by hand again in cold water using cold water detergent. I then let the jersey dry by laying it on a clean towel again face down with a towel betweent the front and back of the jersey, just in case any more ink might bleed.

After that, I went over a few remaining "ghost" signatures one more time using the Amodex method above. The signatures are all removed and the stick marks are still there. Here are some pics.
(The jersey may look a little brighter now since I adjusted the white balance on my camera between pics.)



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docellis
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posted September 25, 2006 01:11 PM      Profile for docellis   Author's Homepage   Email docellis        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Jim that's one of the most amazing removals I have seen to date.

WOW!!!

Rich

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Barr
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posted September 25, 2006 04:19 PM      Profile for Barr   Author's Homepage   Email Barr        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I've had great results using Spot Shot carpet cleaner, which you can buy for about $5 at Target, Wal-Mart or any grocery store really. I removed a blue sharpie auto from a white Ultrafil jersey and in 2-3 applications the auto was gone. I used the terry cloth beneath the auto like Rich suggests. You need to be careful about "catching" the ink you remove, as this stuff really does dissolve the ink and make it come right through onto the terry cloth. (don't use the wife's Egyptian cotton bath towels) It's a foaming spray so be careful when squirting it too. The foaming action really helps to get the ink out of the small weave of the Ultrafil without alot of scrubbing which can also damage the jersey. It's the best stuff I've found yet.

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Brad L
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posted September 25, 2006 05:35 PM      Profile for Brad L   Email Brad L        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Anyone tried removing a sharpie auto from leather gloves? I would expect this is many times easier than a jersey, but interested to hear if anyone has had success and what direction they took to accomplish it.

Brad

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docellis
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posted September 26, 2006 03:43 PM      Profile for docellis   Author's Homepage   Email docellis        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
The toughest auto removal I have seen is when its in the tackle twill number or crest. I got one out for Dave F. but I was lucky the auto was still fresh less then 2 hours after he signed it and I was able to get it out, but it was a *****!!! The easiest is on the Ultrafil jersey, because its 100% nylon and the auto sits right on top of the material because its a tight woven knit, it can't sink into it, so its sitting right on top. Airknit is a little harder because of the mesh and gets into the jersey because its mesh. Sharpie on durene, I have never been able to get one out or have heard of any success. Joe Tomon was able to remove a ink pen auto from a durene jersey. It looked great too. I think leather might be really hard, to porus.

Rich

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MRGOALIE34
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posted September 26, 2006 04:26 PM      Profile for MRGOALIE34   Author's Homepage   Email MRGOALIE34        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
That jersey is now hanging in Ray Sheppards family room. I gave the jersey to Ray last Christmas..That was his first ever NHL jersey...

[ September 26, 2006, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: MRGOALIE34 ]

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BleedBlue2
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posted September 27, 2006 11:58 AM      Profile for BleedBlue2   Author's Homepage   Email BleedBlue2        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Just to add to the wealth of information Rich has provided, removing a sharpie auto from a tackle twill number is next to impossible. I've attempted it and have it to the point where the auto is very faint, but is still noticeable. I still get the jersey out from time to time to try the Amodex, but I think the fact that the threads in the tackle twill are woven so tight that once the ink sets in, it's almost impossible to work out.

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docellis
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posted September 27, 2006 04:01 PM      Profile for docellis   Author's Homepage   Email docellis        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Jim your right on the nose about the tackle twill its woven so tight.

MRGOALIE34, that's awesome that its hanging in his house.

Rich

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RGM63
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posted September 28, 2006 12:36 PM      Profile for RGM63   Author's Homepage   Email RGM63        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Has anyone tried any of these methods on removing autographs from crests ?
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Mike Miller
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posted September 28, 2006 01:33 PM      Profile for Mike Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Miller        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Thanks for sharing the findings.. Some light has now appeared in a dark tunnel. Will be trying it out this weekend on a replica.
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Rufener
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posted September 28, 2006 03:22 PM      Profile for Rufener   Author's Homepage   Email Rufener        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Scroll about half-way down this post and see the before-and-after photos of my success with SpotShot. It was incredibly easy and came out very clean on air-knit.

http://www.gameworn.net/cgi-bin/GW/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013613

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hockeyjimm
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posted August 23, 2007 07:32 AM      Profile for hockeyjimm   Email hockeyjimm        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by RGM63:
Has anyone tried any of these methods on removing autographs from crests ?

I thought I would resurface this very helpful thread. I get e-mails from time to time on how to do it. I recently bought a H/R pair of 92-93 Ft Wayne Komets (a must have on my want list). Both are/were heavily autoed. One on the crest and one on the back numbers.


I used Resolve carpet cleaner, Oxyclean, Simple Green and elbow grease.



I dont have this one completely out yet but it's coming!

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PiratesFan2000
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posted September 22, 2007 01:32 AM      Profile for PiratesFan2000   Email PiratesFan2000        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I thought I'd bump this one up since it was overdue... and since I'm in the process of removing a damn autograph and personalizations..rrgghh!

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PavelBure10
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posted September 22, 2007 09:01 AM      Profile for PavelBure10   Author's Homepage   Email PavelBure10        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I've taken a ton of autographs off of jerseys. I have access to the Indianapolis Colts sidelines before and after home games, and get alot of jerseys signed. I have found that some guys(mostly the newer ones) smudge other people signatures with their sweaty hands, forearms, etc,... I had a great Manning Superbowl jersey signed on the back by all of last years team that I got through a friend on the team. Somehow the Manning, Bethea, and Freeney signatures all got smudged. So my girlfriend used regular Shout stain remover, let it sit for 15 minutes, and hand washed it with cold water and a soft bristle tooth brush. The signatures came out clean and left no trace. I was able to get it resigned during week 1 vs. the Saints. Not sure how well this would work for hockey jerseys, but the numbers are basically the same. Like someone suggested before, perhaps this would best be tried again on a cheap replica? ~PB10
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PiratesFan2000
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posted October 04, 2007 07:41 PM      Profile for PiratesFan2000   Email PiratesFan2000        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
OOPs! I misread this post and used the toothbrush to the front...however, I've removed about 85% of the autograph by scrubbing with Carbona #3. I've used two bottles already. I'm now going to wash the jersey and see what it looks like after. I have to pick up some Amodex and try that. Can u substitute a hockey puck for the golf ball stage?

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PiratesFan2000
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posted October 04, 2007 07:52 PM      Profile for PiratesFan2000   Email PiratesFan2000        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Amodex website:
Here \
NOTE: It says not to use any other chemicals before using Amodex. I would believe that this would include Carbona #3. You may want to wash the jersey before switching from Carbona to Amodex.

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blade99
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posted March 16, 2009 11:21 PM      Profile for blade99   Email blade99        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I figure I bump this post.A lot of good info.Since I see so many Jerseys signed these days. [Smile]

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Wayne
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posted March 17, 2009 05:58 AM      Profile for Wayne   Email Wayne        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
I've taken auto'd jerseys to a local customizing shop and the staff has treated them with a solvent made by Stahl's. It took about 30 seconds to completely remove the autograph. The solvent is also great for taking off glue residue from removed numbers.
Wayne

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Steelmanpa
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posted March 17, 2009 07:31 AM      Profile for Steelmanpa   Author's Homepage   Email Steelmanpa        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
wayne- have you had any removed from the numbers on the back with this method?
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doug reisinger
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Member # 341

posted March 17, 2009 10:28 PM      Profile for doug reisinger   Author's Homepage   Email doug reisinger        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
is stahl's available anywhere

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www.hockeygalleryjerseys.com

Posts: 2739 | From: St. Louis Mo. | Registered: Original Member  |  IP: Logged
probierulz
Rookie
Member # 20482

posted March 17, 2009 10:44 PM      Profile for probierulz   Email probierulz        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
any suggestions on taken autos off pictures, i have a few pics i tried finger nail polish remover and it still left an image behind and other pics it destroyed the photo making it really tacky(sticky)
thanks for any imput you might have

paul [Confused]

http://community.webshots.com/user/probierulz1

[ March 17, 2009, 10:46 PM: Message edited by: probierulz ]

Posts: 77 | From: Hockeytown North | Registered: Oct 2008  |  IP: Logged
Wayne
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Member # 1057

posted March 18, 2009 06:52 AM      Profile for Wayne   Email Wayne        Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Hey Doug,
I went to a local shop that does embroidery/tackle twill for school team uniforms, varsity jackets, clubs, etc. Staff there said that the solvent is called "Stahls' solvent" and it's sprayed through a pressurized gun (like an airbrush used for painting). I believe Stahls only sells through its network of dealers and reps, but you can probably find a list of reps on the Stahls' site. I had a black autograph removed from a white number and it worked really well. It also removed a big grease stain off of a baseball jersey too. So I had luck with it, but your mileage may vary!
Wayne

Posts: 880 | From: Pittsburgh, PA | Registered: Jun 2000  |  IP: Logged


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